Digital Light Wand Comments

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: is0-mick (IP: 81.144.211.35 , 81.144.211.35)
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Comment: Not sure what micro you are using, but doesnt sound like it has enough memory etc as you said.
Code deffo works on mega 2560.

I think there may be an issue with your SD wiring maybe? It deffo should not disconnect when it fires up the SD reader. Only other thing I could think that would cause something like that is perhaps the micro you are using also uses the same pins for the SD and the serial?

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: Kyle P (IP: 96.248.217.241 , pool-96-248-217-241.nrflva.fios.verizon.net)
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Comment: Still no luck. I did notice the only time I can get it to print to serial is when the sd card board doesn’t have power, abd then it’ll only say “sd init fsil” the board also closes the usb connection from my computer when the sd card board powers on. I’m wondering if I’m having a lack of memory issue on the micro. When it complies I’m using about 83% program storage memory and 96% for variables. At the bottom it says low memory, May cause stability issues. I compiled it under the mega and it only used 8% and 30%. I’m curious if the micro can’t handle the programming A’s crashes. Your thoughts? Thanks.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: is0-mick (IP: 87.115.231.205 , 205.231.115.87.dyn.plus.net)
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Comment: That should be printing out on serial.
I did notice you have serial.begin(115200) three times in the code.

It only needs to be in the setup part of the code, please delete the other two. one in setupLCDdisplay() and the other in setupSDcard()

Upload the code to the arduino, then on the audrino IDE select tools.. serial monitor..

You should start seeing output in the window that opens.

Hope that helps..

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: is0-mick (IP: 87.115.231.205 , 205.231.115.87.dyn.plus.net)
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Comment: Sure,
Just pop it up on pastebin or something, and post a link.

Cheers

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: Kyle P (IP: 96.248.217.241 , pool-96-248-217-241.nrflva.fios.verizon.net)
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Comment: Couldn’t get the Serial.print to work with this code but I can get it to work with the SD card examples Arduino provides. I also swapped out every time it said lcd.print to Serial.print but that didn’t produce anything either. Is there somewhere I can post my code for you to take a look at?

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: is0-mick (IP: 87.115.231.205 , 205.231.115.87.dyn.plus.net)
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Comment: Have a look in the code for a line such as Serial.begin(115200);

The number in brackets indicates the baud rate. If there is no line, then add one as above.
Then just add statements in the code such as Serial.print(“Key pressed..”); or such 🙂

Mick

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Author: Kyle P (IP: 96.248.217.241 , pool-96-248-217-241.nrflva.fios.verizon.net)
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Comment: I tried Serial.print… on the serial monitor window and it did not write anything back. Is there a particular baud rate I should use? I know 1200 only resets it. I read the formatting rules for the bitmaps and corrected those. I noticed the code for the lcd screen it looked like the pins for the screen were on 8, 9, 4, 5, 6, 7. I had some of my buttons on those pins so I moved them over to A0-A5.Still no change.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: is0-mick (IP: 146.200.21.103 , 103.21.200.146.dyn.plus.net)
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Comment: Just a thought, for debugging, you could always try Serial.print…., and print to the console window on the PC to see if the program is failing at any point…

Mick

As for the format, see points 4 and 5 on the guide at the top of this page 🙂

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: Kyle P (IP: 96.248.217.241 , pool-96-248-217-241.nrflva.fios.verizon.net)
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Comment: Thanks for the suggestion, I’ve wired the buttons to pins 4&5, 6&7, and 8&9 and updated the code to reflect the changes. my Micro seems to accept the code fine, but nothing happens when I hit the buttons. I’m wondering if there is an issue with my bitmaps and SD card format since I don’t have an LCD to verify the SD works at startup. I have an 8GB high capacity card in there that I could only get to format under FAT32. Think that’s too big? Also, how should I format my bitmaps? Thanks!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author: is0-mick (IP: 87.112.61.194 , 87.112.61.194)
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Comment: It should work fine without the LCD display.
I had some aux buttons in a version of my code so you didn’t have to use the small ones on the display. Just wire up the buttons to those pins, and i think it should work fine without the LCD. Not 100% if Michael’s code uses the pins for extra buttons, but its very easy to add if not.

Regards

Mick

We love the project posted on here. I have a request though. We’re trying to make a strip work for a Poi performance and having some obstacles with the programming. right now I have an Arduino Micro running an Adafruit micro SD card reader and a 32 light LPD8806 strip to test. How difficult would it be to remove the programming for the LCD screen but leave buttons that would allow to cycle between bitmaps stored on the SD card?

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 178.115.130.98 , 178.115.130.98.wireless.dyn.drei.com)
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Comment:
Hi!!!

congrats for the ws2812 project. it looks great!

I sorted out correctly the issue that I had regarding sending a single file as a loop, and I wanted to share the sketch here in case somebody needs it.

At the same time, I wanted to ask you (Michael) if you could check it out, since I have been testing it with a white bmp file to be able to measure its maximum energy consumption (I am using 7.9mts of led strip) and doing this I found out that I do not have real white. or at least I do not perceive it really white. I know that perception with the led strip could be tricky, but I thought that perhaps there is something in my code that is provoking this. I have been looking for a brightness value, but found nothing. so if you have 10 minutes to check it out, I would really appreciate it.

http://www.leobettinelli.com.ar/download/ws2811_cube_80px_1set.zip

thanks!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Gary Young (IP: 151.227.213.204 , 97e3d5cc.skybroadband.com) E-mail : geewhy5668@gmail.com
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Comment:
sorry for the repeat post but i posted in the wrong place ..
hi ive seen this 2m 288 pixel strip on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2m-WS2812B-RGB-LED-Pixel-Strip-288-Individually-Addressable-Pixels-144-m-/151346432529?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item233cf34a11

can you tell me if the Mega 2560 R3 with LCD Keypad Shield would work … and what code would i need please , also suggestions on a pwer supply would be appreciated … ive spent 4 hours trying to research all this but im a complete noob to this and really want to build a wand..thanks in advance

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Gary Young (IP: 151.227.213.204 , 97e3d5cc.skybroadband.com) E-mail : geewhy5668@gmail.com
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Comment:
hi ive seen this 2m 288 pixel strip on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2m-WS2812B-RGB-LED-Pixel-Strip-288-Individually-Addressable-Pixels-144-m-/151346432529?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item233cf34a11

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 178.165.130.30 , 178.165.130.30.wireless.dyn.drei.com)
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Comment:
Another question!!! 🙂

Is it possible to send simultaneous BMP files to more than 1 led strip?

poing!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Lee (IP: 81.86.241.117 , 81-86-241-117.dsl.pipex.com) E-mail : ltodd2@gmail.com
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Comment:
Allan,
Is this the kind of thing that would work? Am still looking for one from the UK.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Converter-Regulator-12V-24V-Stepdown-to-5V-10A-50W-Car-Adapter-waterproof-/221175090802?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item337f100e72

I used a step DOWN regulator with a 5A max output. Like I mentioned before, it still not enough to have pure white across the entire strip for more than a half a second as there is not enough power.

This is the one similar to what I’ve used:http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Step-Down-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Module-5A-Max-Module-Board-HM-/400697482609?tfrom=400714751657&tpos=top&ttype=price&talgo=undefined

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Lee (IP: 81.86.241.117 , 81-86-241-117.dsl.pipex.com) E-mail : ltodd2@gmail.com
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Comment:
Allan
Can you give details for the DC regulator you used please. Im just starting on this project and still deciding on led type and number of. Like the idea of a 2meter 288 strip.
Thanks

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Lee (IP: 81.86.241.117 , 81-86-241-117.dsl.pipex.com) E-mail : ltodd2@gmail.com
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Comment:
Mick
sorry for the delay, other things have kept me away :(. The Adafruit version just uses an UNO and SD card, no display which could be an issue. The reason I looked at it is because I have an UNO at the moment but not a mega.
I think I have decided to go and build this one but could do with some advice. I have seen strips with the WS2811 chip, adafruit neopixel (not sure what it uses) and the LPD8806 chip. Will the code on here work all these? Also Im thinking or a 2 meter wand using 144 led/m, which version should I use. Correct me if im wrong but the dual code is to get higher pixel per meter and not for having in one line. Do all the codes support the lcd.
Thanks
Lee

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 83.64.142.10 , 83-64-142-10.zwischennetz.xdsl-line.inode.at)
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Comment:
Excellent people!

thank you very much! This weekend I will mount my piece and share with you the results.

I cannot avoid to think anyway, that it would be beautiful to have the full menu that we use in “DLW_dual_strip_v2_0” in the “Arduino Digital Light Wand + SD + LCD V1.07 (ws2801) // by Is0-Mick 2012” sketch. Perhaps with time?

Thanks as always!!!!

leo.-

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 94.196.245.130 , 94.196.245.130.threembb.co.uk) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
Alternatively you could just place a piece of wire (or link) between the two pins for the AUX send button.. 🙂

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 178.115.131.45 , 178.115.131.45.wireless.dyn.drei.com)
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Comment:
Hi people!

I would like to ask for some help. I am trying out different stuff with the beautiful software from the light wand, but I don´t know much about code. Perhaps you have the time to give me a hand 🙂

I am creating a light installation based on the “digital light wand” sketch. This installation uses only one file from the sd card, but it that must run for 9 hours. my led strip has 64 pixels, and the maximun bmp size is in this case 64 * 30000, which gives me a 10 minutes lasting file. so I need to be able to repeat this file ad infinitum…

I am using the sketch “Arduino Digital Light Wand + SD + LCD V1.07 (ws2801) // by Is0-Mick 2012”, and I would like to have the option of repeating files, like we do have in the “DLW_dual_strip_v2_0”.

I am really new in arduino, so It is very difficult for me know to decrypt how to be able to add the menu that we have in “DLW_dual_strip_v2_0.ino” to the sketch that I am actually using “ws2811_cube_64px.ino”.

If this is too complicated, I would be also very happy if I could have a sketch that when you turn on the arduino, it simple runs the file XX.bmp and repeats it forever, altough having the possibility of control the frame delay and other parameters is very usefull.

Thanks for the great job and for sharing it!!!!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 178.115.129.184 , 178.115.129.184.wireless.dyn.drei.com)
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Comment:
Hi there!

I was wondering if someone already created a sketch to use with the WS2801 but with the menu that it is being used in the last versions of the DLW, for example the “DLW_dual_strip_v2_0”

cheers!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Richard (IP: 121.74.103.110 , 121-74-103-110.telstraclear.net) E-mail : gr8freeflyer@yahoo.com
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Comment:
Hi Alan,

sorry back on the case again and got a bit more time to spend on project again got lights working now however I have changed the keyboard and LCD shield over for a straight LCD and was relying on using the aux buttons that i have placed onto pins 22 – 31 on mega 2560. however with the shield removed it just simply starts and then when it hits the loop it is just looping through and displaying all options very fast and not waiting for an input from the keyboard. How do i get the code to read and wait for the key press when not using the shield. is this something to do with the analog read in the code and should it be waiting for digitalread or something. Also it no longer appears to dim down automatically I tried to write in a backlightoff to make it do that but I think this is also due to the loop and not sensing the keypress. I have placed code here http://pastebin.com/hP7kP0S5 Many thanks in advance

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Richard (IP: 121.74.99.1 , 121-74-99-1.telstraclear.net) E-mail : gr8freeflyer@yahoo.com
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Comment:
Sorry Allan fat fingered a lot of that previous text lol

many thanks for your reply and looking at the code sorry i did not change the header of the code, but the code I have pasted is what actually work with my 144 leds, ie using the adafruit_neopixels. I am going to have another look at the code maybe later tonight, but the idea is that I just upload the biggest image I want to display ie 288 pixel width and thn by slectign the pixel count parameter I can make this shrink accordingly without changing the image, this already works in the code attached above now but just wanted to resolve the pixel count being halved which as mentioned will take a look tonight hopefully. Also want to look at being able to address the image from a top down perspective, so at present with code above I can make an image display using 72 pixels [1/2 meter in height] over a 288 wand using a 288 ppixel picture but i wish this to start at the top of the wand so ignore the first 216 pixels just thinking out loud so will investigate this later. mcuh appreciated for your input hopefully get a diffuser in the next couple fo days and be looking good and will then hopefully post images

Or still use 288px but favor either top or bottom depending on which side you want the image to show. Of course having the background of the image as black would not display in the wand.

I think this would be more of a simpler solution than switch between lengths.

The core code you’ve posted was for the LPD8806. The one that works for the 288 strip was ws2801.

I hope this helps.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Richard (IP: 121.74.118.239 , 121-74-118-239.telstraclear.net) E-mail : gr8freeflyer@yahoo.com
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Comment:
I have pasted code in here http://pastebin.com/QRv6c2sD

I am trying to be able to make changes to led count so if i wish to display a smaller image of the one I have selected I then select smaller led count and this will change this it works to a degree but have the issue with the count being divided by two.. I was also wondering if there was a way to be able to start the image from the top of the wand / bottom of the ie visa versa. ie if you had a small flying bird image and the normal direction was bottom to top if you could make the led count smaller to reduce the image size and then have it start image from the top..?? the reason that I left the code in for two strip lights just wanted this option so during the menu you select dual strip or single strip..

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 71.13.90.142 , 71-13-90-142.static.bycy.mi.charter.com)
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Comment:
Hey Richard,
I am basing this reply on the assumption that the strip was wired properly. ( please double check to make sure)

The modified code I uploaded http://pastebin.com/ZZ1fzqfm should work AS IS.

Have a look out on STRIP_LENGTH and replace its value with 288.

I hope this helps.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Richard (IP: 121.74.125.105 , 121-74-125-105.telstraclear.net) E-mail : gr8freeflyer@yahoo.com
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Comment:
Hi Allan,

got a weird one happening still building mine and waiting for a few parts but have got it working, I am using the interlaced code however I only want to use the single 2M strip for the moment that is 144 leds per meter however when I define the strip length it divides this by two ie if I state 288LEDs it only produces the results on 144 LED length somewhere the code seems to divide this by two.. would you be able to point me in the right direction for this I wish it to If I state 288 strip length then it outputs to 288Leds.

Many thanks in advance

Kind Regards

Richard

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Lee (IP: 81.144.232.163 , 81.144.232.163) E-mail : ltodd2@gmail.com
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Comment:
Hi Mick
Good to know I can use most strips etc. Will do some shopping around.
As to Adafruit what I meant was they have build info for one that uses the arduino uno and not the mega as you use on here. Just wondered which is the better option and they are different beasts Thanks Lee

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 91.125.64.6 , 6.64.125.91.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
Hi lee, theres a few different codes on here for most strips now, so it’s basically up to you what strip you want to use or what size and resolution. The length of strip can be set in code.

I think I posted a version ages ago on adafruit. Is that what you meant?

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Tony Mcfall (IP: 116.30.20.223 , 116.30.20.223) E-mail : souldesigngroup@aol.com
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Comment:
Good share, we will try our 60pixel LPD8806 led strip from http://www.gree-leds.com/productshow.asp?ArticleID=9YQWYTZR8U

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Satwik (IP: 117.234.43.6 , 117.234.43.6) E-mail : mail@satwik.com
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Comment:
Hello Mick,

Thanks a lot for a quick reply.

Even i was thinking of using a separate 5V supply.

As for the shield is concerned, the LCD doesnt give out any output, so no problem with the LCD part. Its the buttins i was a bit concerned about. As they might carry the signal back to the analog pin A0 at 5V, and that might harm the board. So thats why i was asking if you, michael or any other member here used it. And i think the dfrobot sheild you mentioned is also based on the same design.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 46.208.181.74 , 74.181.208.46.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
Hi I power my strip by a separate 5v regulator as it can draw too much power and damage the reg on the board. (Been there done that lol).

As for the shield I’m using the one off eBay it usually has markings of dfrobot or such on it. And sometimes the right button is spelt wrong. Im also using the mega not the due.

Hope that helps.

Mick

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Author : Satwik (IP: 59.89.27.45 , 59.89.27.45) E-mail : mail@satwik.com
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Comment:
Hello Michael and Mick,

You two are doing a really fantastic job.

I have two questions.
1. What Lcd shield are you using on your Arduino Due? The one available on sainsmart and ebay, all run on 5V and the arduino due supports input at 3.3V only. So link to the shield you are using would be really helpful.

2. Should i power the LPD8806 52led/meter strip directly from the board as suggested in the circuit diagram, or should i power it from another power supply?
Coz i fear that i might over-draw current beyond the normal range of the board.

With Regards,
Satwik Sharma

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Richard (IP: 121.74.101.180 , 121-74-101-180.telstraclear.net) E-mail : gr8freeflyer@yahoo.com
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Comment:
Many thanks Allan

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 87.114.133.114 , 87.114.133.114) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
OK that code is for the LPD8806 based strip.
Is that what kind of strip you are using?

As “52 led’s” doesnt tell me what type of chips it’s using..

Mick

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Author : Richard (IP: 121.74.111.54 , 121-74-111-54.telstraclear.net) E-mail : gr8freeflyer@yahoo.com
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Comment:
Many thanks Allan will let you know how i get on once all parts arrived and put together looking forward to it..

For the LED Strips, I have a single strip that has 52 LEDs.

I am using Arduino Mega

If I installed the wrong code please let me know which version I should use. Thanks a lot for the quick reply!!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 87.113.48.168 , 87.113.48.168) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
Hi Chico, are you using the right version for your strip?
Did you set the correct strip length in the code?

The external switch is just an optional button to send the pattern to the strip (just saves having to fumble with the small switches on the board).

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : chico (IP: 71.251.45.222 , pool-71-251-45-222.nwrknj.east.verizon.net)
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Comment:
I made the circuit according to the schematic and the code is working well because every time i choose my bmp file it says sending. However, I don’t see any lights on the led strip. I checked the ground and 5 volts that is connected to the LED strip from arduino and I am getting 5v so it is supplying 5v but I’m not getting any light on the LED stip. I used an external power supply and the led strips lights up but not all, only 1/4 of the led lights up if I use an external 5v. Any suggestions guys? Thanks a lot!!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Richard (IP: 24.234.229.41 , wsip-24-234-229-41.lv.lv.cox.net) E-mail : richardbrianlv@gmail.com
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Comment:
Hi ISO mick. So I have a single strip 104 pixel using the LPD8806 SD/LCD with arduino Mega. I’m currently using the arduino code for a dual strip, I am seeing some images come through but I’m definitely missing something. Any chance you could kindly consult with me and provide some assistance with programming the arduino to recognize my pixels properly? My email is richardbrianlv@gmail.com

I’d really appreciate a hand.

I look forward to your response.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 71.13.90.142 , 71-13-90-142.static.bycy.mi.charter.com)
E-mail : dfernandez@cadmiumdesigns.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/71.13.90.142
Comment:
Hello Richard,
I used several batteries in different voltages but ended up using a mini 12v lead acid battery and using a STEP DOWN DC regulator @ 5.7v. This will give me about two nights of shooting.

The DC regulator I used has a lcd read out screen where you can see both in and out voltages. Gets really handy when monitoring the battery’s power.

I hope this helps.

@GP
I wired the strip differently, but everything else you can just follow the above diagram.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Richard (IP: 121.74.122.54 , 121-74-122-54.telstraclear.net) E-mail : gr8freeflyer@yahoo.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/121.74.122.54
Comment:
Hi Allan,

I am also in the process of building a digital light wand with the 144led’s (288Led’s). Currently awaiting for the remainder of the parts to turn up. Was going to look at 2 dual strips of 2meters (144Leds) to get awesome pixels. However a question if you will, how did you provide the power for this you mention the 5v from arduino will not be enough did you use another shield (power FET) or regulator..? Was the source a 12v Battery and how did you regulate etc. Even better would be a wiring diagram as this will be my first arduino project so any help / assistance would be greatly appreciated.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 77.119.133.197 , 77.119.133.197.wireless.dyn.drei.com)
E-mail : camilozk@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/77.119.133.197
Comment:
normally this message appears when the sd reader is not connected properly. check out the pins that are being used in the sketch.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Richard (IP: 24.234.229.41 , wsip-24-234-229-41.lv.lv.cox.net) E-mail : richardbrianlv@gmail.com
URL : http://richardbrian.com
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/24.234.229.41
Comment:
Hello Light Wand Bloggers, I’m curious if anyone one on here has encountered the blinking “SD init failed” message after installing the arduino code. I’m pretty sure I’ve followed the instructions correctly but perhaps I’m missing something else. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : GP (IP: 220.244.26.242 , 220-244-26-242.static.tpgi.com.au)
E-mail : gerard9486@gmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/220.244.26.242
Comment:
Any chance you have a wiring diagram of what you are doing for the 288 strip? Is the Mega able to handle the data and timing for the strip?
Cheers,
G

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 77.119.128.122 , 77.119.128.122.wireless.dyn.drei.com)
E-mail : camilozk@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/77.119.128.122
Comment:
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardMega2560

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : rob (IP: 2.120.188.175 , 0278bcaf.bb.sky.com) E-mail : theicecreamseller@yahoo.co.uk
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/2.120.188.175
Comment:
hi i am seeking some advice – i have managed to get my hands on a led strip 144 leds WS2811 i would really like to build a light wand but i am not sure which arduino board i need, any help at all would be most appreciated

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Vass (IP: 82.23.252.147 , cpc6-hava2-2-0-cust146.6-1.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : Mark@doubleyolk.co.uk
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/82.23.252.147
Comment:
In Radio Control, we reduce down the 11.1 from a 3 cell Lipo to 5 or 6 volts using a “ubec”. It’s perfect for what you need.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : caz3mc (IP: 90.211.65.226 , 5ad341e2.bb.sky.com) E-mail : iainmccaslin@sky.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/90.211.65.226
Comment:
Hi Danny I used a voltage regulator to give a steady 5 volt supply but if you have to high an input voltage then dropping it down will result in heat being generated, i had a 8volt remote controlled car battery and put the voltage regulator onto a bit of aluminium to dissipate any heat build up. hope this is of help to you.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Danny (IP: 86.6.41.162 , cpc7-lewi16-2-0-cust417.2-4.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : danny_cable@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/86.6.41.162
Comment:
Just a quick 1 for everyone, I have been in comunication with Allan (because we are both using the 288 led light strips) with regards to power supplies for our wands, My plan is to use 3 cell 11.1v Lipo’s but I need to covert this down to 5v to power strip directly and ardinuo.
So my question is how have people sorted out their power supply and what are they using,

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : GP (IP: 220.244.26.242 , 220-244-26-242.static.tpgi.com.au)
E-mail : gerard9486@gmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/220.244.26.242
Comment:
Hi Allan
Do you have a wiring diagram / photos of the actual wand you used? Would be great to have a look.
Cheers,
GP

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 178.165.131.97 , 178-165-131-097.dyn.orange.at) E-mail : camilozk@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/178.165.131.97
Comment:
Hi guys!

I saw that you are now building the DLW with WS2811 led strips. I would like to ask you if it makes any difference for the arduino sketch if the strip is 5V or 12V. I am planning to feed it straight from a battery or adapter, and not from the board. I saw that the 12v strips are much cheaper…

Also, is there a limit to the number of pixels? or as far as I have enough power to light them up, it will work fine?

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Martin (IP: 77.184.82.225 , brln-4db852e1.pool.mediaWays.net) E-mail : clkdiv@yahoo.de
URL : http://www.martin-hoppe.com
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/77.184.82.225
Comment:
Hello you nice girls & guys out there.

I finished a project now that was done with my elder stick (among others), it is a sort of light painted theater piece. Have a look here please, but turn on sound, there is a little audio in it:

www.time-slice.de

Haven’t been here for a long time and now saw the incredible progress in terms of resolution. The 144 LED/m strip seems great, I ordered one 5 minutes ago.

Have fun! Martin…

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 87.112.247.164 , 87.112.247.164) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
URL :
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Comment:
I thik everyone doesn’t use this strip because it’s new to the market. It didn’t exist when we started, the HL1606 we used originally only had 16 colours even!

If I was building a wand now, then i’d deffo use the new strip with the higher resolution 🙂

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 87.112.247.164 , 87.112.247.164) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/87.112.247.164
Comment:
Looks like you haven’t downloaded the adafruit ws2801 library and put it in your audrino libs folder…

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 75.128.191.52 , 75-128-191-52.dhcp.sgnw.mi.charter.com)
E-mail : dfernandez@cadmiumdesigns.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/75.128.191.52
Comment:
Thanks Danny and Jordan. Here is the code: http://pastebin.com/ZZ1fzqfm It is important that you have the neopixel library copied in your arduino libraries folder for this to compile properly.

I will try to upload the pics in another host for better resolution pics.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Danny (IP: 86.6.41.162 , cpc7-lewi16-2-0-cust417.2-4.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : danny_cable@hotmail.com
URL :
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Comment:
They look really good mate, I emailed you earlier about some stuff if you could drop code in with your response that would be great been looking round the adriuno site all day and still cant figure it out cheers dan. Are you post these in your blog as i would love to see bigger/ higher res versions

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 71.13.90.142 , 71-13-90-142.static.bycy.mi.charter.com)
E-mail : dfernandez@cadmiumdesigns.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/71.13.90.142
Comment:
Hey is0-mick,
In Phillip Burgess’ adafruit neopixel painter tutorial http://learn.adafruit.com/neopixel-painter/overview He used a rotary encoder.

Ive done it and it works great! But the problem with this setup, it maxes out at 170 pixels. And having a longer strip, I would like to maximize it 🙂

So would it be possible to add the rotary encoder to your ws2801 code?

Thanks!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 71.13.90.142 , 71-13-90-142.static.bycy.mi.charter.com)
E-mail : support@cadmiumdesigns.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/71.13.90.142
Comment:
I soldered them together. If you notice there is a joint every 1/2 meter. That little gap should’ve been A LOT more closer. I would’ve done it if I didn’t stick them in my channel before firing them up (doh). If you can, try to re-solder it as close as you can because you will be able to see that little gap. I find them really annoying.

The led I used only had 3 connections. (5v, GND, CLK/DATA pins) The code is0-Mick is pretty much straight forward, just make sure to add adafruit’s neopixel strips arduino library from here: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoPixel. I can upload the code I used if you need it.

BTW, I tried uploading some pictures of my wand + sample pics several times but wordpress apparently thinks I’m a spammer. You can shoot me an email at dfernandez [at] cadmiumdesigns [dot] com and I can send you the pics and code.

Good Luck!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Danny (IP: 86.6.41.162 , cpc7-lewi16-2-0-cust417.2-4.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : danny_cable@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/86.6.41.162
Comment:
By the way for my holder I used Led light strip profile which has diffuser, made a tube handle on the back same style to the pixel stick out of an hospital crutch.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Danny (IP: 86.6.41.162 , cpc7-lewi16-2-0-cust417.2-4.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : danny_cable@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/86.6.41.162
Comment:
Hi Allan
Got some of my parts now and finished making the holder, got a few questions i hope you dont mind and can help me, did you join the strips of leds? If so did you just solder? i noticed the led strips we use have 5 wires and all the schematics are 4 wires what pin locations have you used ? did you have any problems with Mikes code ws2801?

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 146.90.37.221 , 221.37.90.146.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/146.90.37.221
Comment:
You need to give a little bit more detail…
“An error”, doesn’t really help much.

But I’d think its either missing libraries (could be LCD display, sd card, led library), or wrong arduino version or something that is causing the problem.

Can’t really say though without additional info..

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 146.90.37.221 , 221.37.90.146.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/146.90.37.221
Comment:
Hi Vass,
I think i’d not bother with twin strips and I’d go with the newer strip mentioned below.

It has the same resolution if not higher than the dual strips..

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Vin (IP: 71.255.80.83 , pool-71-255-80-83.nwrknj.east.verizon.net)
E-mail : mond_latayan@yahoo.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/71.255.80.83
Comment:
Do i just paste the code to my arduino software and compile it because I did that and I was getting an error and not letting me upload the file. Thanks

After a year or so with the old wand, it’s time to upgrade

I want Max resolution
So, twin strips I’m guessing is the way to go

Am I using 32 or 52 LED’s per metre of the 8806?

Thanks
Vass

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Danny (IP: 86.6.41.162 , cpc7-lewi16-2-0-cust417.2-4.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : danny_cable@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/86.6.41.162
Comment:
Just sourcing my parts now for a 2m 288 led wand, I was looking at the 1602 keypads but came across tft touchscreens would i be able to use them instead ? (it even has a micro card reader onboard) http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/TFTtoBoards

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : leo (IP: 91.141.0.168 , 091-141-000-168.dyn.orange.at) E-mail : camilozk@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/91.141.0.168
Comment:
It is solved.

I dont know what the problem was, because the format was ok, but when the images were saved by photoshop 7, they didnt work. now I am using photoshop cs4 and it works. I am VERY HAPPY!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : camilozk (IP: 91.141.0.168 , 091-141-000-168.dyn.orange.at) E-mail : camilozk@hotmail.com
URL :
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Comment:
hi iso mick!

I have just tryed an external button. it works but you have to be very precise while pushing. as soon as you push too long, it skips numbers very fast. I assume that I will have to cimply get used to it.

anyway, I still would like to solve the “low brightness / flickering” of the display. the brightness of the LCD´s backlight is fluctuating all the time, and it is not at its 100%. I can notice this because it is at its 100% when the arduino is initializing, but afterwards it goes down. any idea on this? someone else experience this?

thanks!!!!

6.5 ft/ 2m is awesome! I have used I believe a 12.2 mm commercial aluminum track lighting/under cabinet diffuser. and it fits perfectly: no light spills on either side.

One thing like I mentioned before is that this thing takes a lot of power. 5v USB will not be enough. It will hang. So remember that when testing

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Danny (IP: 86.6.41.162 , cpc7-lewi16-2-0-cust417.2-4.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : danny_cable@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/86.6.41.162
Comment:
Cheers for that Allan. Can I call on you if i need any help as it looks like you have done the setup I want to use ? how is it handling ? Any pics of your finished wand ?
Would be great to this wand in action !!!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 75.128.191.52 , 75-128-191-52.dhcp.sgnw.mi.charter.com)
E-mail : dfernandez@cadmiumdesigns.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/75.128.191.52
Comment:
Hello Danny,
I just finished my 288 LED setup: works great. I was using 6-AA and this thing eats up battery like there’s no tomorrow!

Using rechargables is the way to go .I will be upgrading to SANYO eneloop 1,900 mAh Ni-MH: hopefully it will last longer.

@Mick
The ws2801 code you had posted with a little bit of tweaking (mainly just adding Adafruit Neopixel libraries and converting to GRB) worked well. Thank so much.

How can I add brightness control?How can I somewhat edit frame delay? Because even at 0 is still a bit slow. Maybe its the limitation based on my set-up probably?

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Danny (IP: 86.6.41.162 , cpc7-lewi16-2-0-cust417.2-4.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : danny_cable@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/86.6.41.162
Comment:
Cheers Mick thats exactly what i was thinking, the resolution should be incredible 288 pixels on the 2m wand, I plan on using the 8aa power supply any ideas if i will have any probs?
now i just have to plan how to do the joint be that will have to wait till I get the bits.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 91.125.237.86 , 86.237.125.91.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/91.125.237.86
Comment:
Hi Danny,
You can do what you said with a 1m extension, but you’d have to use different images for the size of wand.
ie If your 1m wand was 50 pixels, and +1m was 100 pixels.
You’d need to do images at that size.
The code you would just set at the max size, and the extra pixels would just be ignored.

The strip you said should work, but you’ll have to use my other code for that chipset ws2811.

Someone asked the same question further down:
Posted December 4, 2013 at 11:52 am by Allan

Kind Regards

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Danny (IP: 86.6.41.162 , cpc7-lewi16-2-0-cust417.2-4.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : danny_cable@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/86.6.41.162
Comment:
@ Michael Ross great wand, I’m really intrested in a making a wand very similar to yours ( I have no experience in anything like this, I have done a little soldering before though). I have a few quiries that i hope you can help me with as I know nothing. Would it be possible to make a wand that would normally be a meter long but if you wanted put a 1m extension onto the top to give you bigger pics / wand ? Would it require changing the Arduino code thingy ?
I know you recommend the LPD8806 leds would it be possible to use this instead http://www.ebay.co.uk itm/121161746255?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 what differences would this make ?

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Gary (IP: 77.102.132.250 , cpc18-chap7-2-0-cust249.18-1.cable.virginm.net)
E-mail : ghp1968@virginmedia.com
URL : http://Garyhornephotography.com
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/77.102.132.250
Comment:
Hello Mr Ross, do you know if you will be doing a tutorial on the ultimate orb tool.
I think it’s a light stand and wheel, but not much else.

Thanks
Gary

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Maarten Takens (IP: 85.158.139.228 , proxy26.messagelabs.net) E-mail : maarten.takens@gmail.com
URL : http://www.maartentakens.com
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/85.158.139.228
Comment:
Thanks for sharing , i finished my lightwand last week and i am very happy with the results !

regards
Maarten Takens

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Brian Zhang (IP: 218.250.167.43 , n218250167043.netvigator.com) E-mail : zyk12321@gmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/218.250.167.43
Comment:
Hi Michael, thanks for your sharing and it is so helpful for me.
And do you know ws2811 LED Light Strip? I just found there is only one data line in this strip, and with closer distance between the bulbs. But I don’t know how to write the arduino code to drive it. did you ever do some research on the WS2811 ?

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 71.13.90.142 , 71-13-90-142.static.bycy.mi.charter.com)
E-mail : dfernandez@cadmiumdesigns.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/71.13.90.142
Comment:
I used a single 9v battery, it didn’t really last very long. So I used a 6-AA batteries using this case:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Holder-6-AA-6-AA-9V-ENCLOSED-case-box-with-6-cable-Leads-US-Free-Ship-/281110847906?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41738321a2

Good luck.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : kev (IP: 89.158.137.89 , 89-158-137-89.rev.dartybox.com) E-mail : kevinbusson06@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/89.158.137.89
Comment:
I finished mine few days ago. Works just fine, thanks a lot 😀 What is your advices about the batteries supply?
I use a 5V 1A for 64 leds and I think that it can’t give enough current to make a good “white” color (only pink)

It probably would make better sense too if you go left-right-left-right. So you don’t have to go back to your starting point every time.

Thanks. Ill report back in case I come to any problems on the new one.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 87.113.212.118 , 87.113.212.118) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/87.113.212.118
Comment:
Isn’t it just doing exactly the same as what we’ve been doing for some time now?

The animated time lapse feature? isnt that just displaying 1 picture, taking a shot.
Displaying the next frame (picture from the sd card), taking another shot… (repeat) … and making an animated gif?

So split an animated gif into its frames, save as BMP, put on the sd card.

Or am I missing something?

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 71.13.90.142 , 71-13-90-142.static.bycy.mi.charter.com)
E-mail : dfernandez@cadmiumdesigns.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/71.13.90.142
Comment:
Thanks Mick for the reply. That’s great! This is going to be a lot easier for me.

BTW, what are your thoughts about the pixelstick by Bitbanger Labs? I really like the animated timelapse feature.

Thanks again.

I did a version for the ws2801 for someone a while ago..

http://pastebin.com/HPRvu2cf

is the code.

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Allan (IP: 75.128.191.52 , 75-128-191-52.dhcp.sgnw.mi.charter.com)
E-mail : dfernandez@cadmiumdesigns.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/75.128.191.52
Comment:
I just finished my own DLW using 104 LPD8806 configuration.Thanks to both of you iso-mick and mr ross for all your efforts.

I was contemplating on doing a longer version then I came across this WS2811 144 led/meter strip.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-PCB-1M-144LED-M-WS2811-Led-Digital-strip-RGB-Individually-Addressable-5V-/121161746255?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item1c35cd874f

So I have to ask: since this thing has only ONE contact data and control point, is this even a viable alternative to the LPD8806? As this will solve all my problems with housing and diffuser issues by using cheaper led commercial channels.

Thanks and keep up the great work!

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Caz3mc (IP: 94.2.29.52 , 5e021d34.bb.sky.com) E-mail : iainmccaslin@sky.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/94.2.29.52
Comment:
I was having power issues also and resolved mine by using an external 7.2V battery and a 2 amp 5 volt voltage regulator, the Arduino gets it’s power from the 7.2v on the positive side of the voltage regulator and the LED’s get power from the 5 volt output side of the regulator, I’ve not had any power issues since trying it this way. I’m not an electrician but it worked for me? I’m sure Mick & mike will correct me if I’m wrong. I’ll try and post a diagram of how I wired it up plus a picture of the case I used.

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : is0-mick (IP: 87.113.157.129 , 87.113.157.129) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
URL :
Whois : http://whois.arin.net/rest/ip/87.113.157.129
Comment:
HI,
My code already has code in for 3 additional buttons, up / down and send.

Wires attach to these pins:
//AuxButton is a seperate button to send the image. Connect wires to these pins to use it.
int AuxButton = 44;
int AuxButtonGND = 45;

//Up Button is a seperate button to move up the filenames. Connect wires to these pins to use it.
int UpButton =42;
int UpButtonGND = 43;

//Down Button is a seperate button to move down the filenames. Connect wires to these pins to use it.
int DownButton =40;
int DownButtonGND =41;

Mick

New comment on your post “LPD8806 DLW”
Author : Gary (IP: 46.233.116.169 , 46.233.116.169) E-mail : ghp1968@virginmedia.com
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Comment:
If I have 3 external switches to control the LCD display, will I need to add additional code to Micks code.

If I do, what would it be and where would I put it within Micks code….

Thanks

Mick

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Author : is0-mick (IP: 46.208.46.134 , 134.46.208.46.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
I had a similar problem with the skipping.
Those keypad shields use resistance to select the different buttons, and sometimes the values of the resistors vary slightly.

Or a slightly dirty contact in the switches can also vary the resistance slightly…

I did add code in my version to use external switches, I’m not sure if Michael has included that in his code?

Mick

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Author : is0-mick (IP: 46.208.46.134 , 134.46.208.46.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
If you get that message, then you have saved the files in teh wrong image format. They need to be RGB888 which is 8 bits for each colour, or 24bpp 🙂

Mick

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Author : Gary Horne (IP: 155.136.20.73 , 155.136.20.73) E-mail : ghp1968@virginmedia.com
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Comment:
I really want to make one, so awesome.
The HL1606 is all neat in a box, is there a box available for all of the above to fit in nicely and to carry around when on location.
Are there any tutorials regarding the above.

Thanks

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Author : camilozk (IP: 77.119.133.250 , 77.119.133.250.wireless.dyn.drei.com)
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Comment:
Hi there!

I am trying out the code for the dual strip, arduino mega2560 version of the lightwand.

Everything seems to work alright, but the brightness of the LCD´s backlight is fluctuating all the time, and it is not at its 100%. I can notice this because it is at its 100% when the arduino is initializing. Also, when I move around the menues, it skips some steps. for example, it doesnt do 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8, but 1-3-5-7-8-1-2-4-5-7

weird huh?

any explanation?

thanks!

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Author : kev (IP: 89.158.137.138 , 89-158-137-138.rev.dartybox.com) E-mail : kevinbusson06@hotmail.com
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Comment:
Are you talking about the Arduino software or the Digital Lightwand Code Generator ?

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Comment:
Hey!
Thanks for this tutorial!
Just a question: Does this wiring work with an Arduino UNO ?
This is the same software, I just have to write the correct output PIN right?

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Author : GazB (IP: 81.153.124.45 , host81-153-124-45.range81-153.btcentralplus.com)
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Comment:
Aha I’ve sorted it! Very strange indeed though! I found it works better on 6x AA rechargeable 2000 mah’s. Works much better now and hasn’t frozen in testing. Anything above or below caused it to malfunction. Very odd, but at least it’s working now! Cheers Mike and Mick 🙂

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Author : is0-mick (IP: 46.208.119.191 , 191.119.208.46.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
12v “should” be OK, although I only use 6xAA NiMh(rechargable) batteries, so I’m running off 9v.

I managed to blow the regulator on my arduino by drawing too much current and had to remove it, and use a different one.

It may be the batteries you are using aren’t providing enough current. Have you tried sending a different pattern? something simple, like only a few LED’s on at a tme?

It could be the SD card wires being too long, you only want about 3-4″ between the SD card reader and the arduino, anything more can cause intermittent read problems.

Mick

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Author : GazB (IP: 81.153.124.45 , host81-153-124-45.range81-153.btcentralplus.com)
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Comment:
I had the 2AA and 9V linked to make up to 12V. And i’ve tried the 8AA route to make 12v.

Strange thing now is that it I’ve just tried it off a 9V pp3 battery, and it still crashes and freezes. So i’ve just tried running it from my laptops USB port and it works fine!!!

I’ve just looked up the site where I got the strip from it says 5V! But I had it running on the old code before the SD and LCD addition on a PP3.

Just wondering if it is powering off the USB port, then for some strange reason it must only need up to 6V or around that range (USB is 5V ish). Very strange! Especially when everyone is running on 12V. Can’t see the Arduino being faulty as it runs off the USB (unless i’ve knackered the power port with 12V?)

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Author : is0-mick (IP: 46.208.119.191 , 191.119.208.46.dyn.plus.net) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
Sounds like a power related problem?
What are the 2aa batteries being used for?

You can run the thing just off a 9v pp3, although with 104 led’s you may be better off trying 6 x AA batteries.

What voltage is your strip?

Im using an old SD 2gb card. Are the wires short from your reader to the arduino? as if not this can cause problems.

Hope some of that is of use.

Mick

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Author : GazB (IP: 90.216.183.117 , 5ad8b775.bb.sky.com) E-mail : garethbrooks@rocketmail.com
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Comment:
Mick, I need your please!

I’ve built it and it works for around 2 cycles, but then it freezes!!! I’m using the 9v and 2aa batteries (both new).

The LCD screen flickers and seems like it’s to getting power! But it is! Any ideas what could be causing this? Could it be the SD card (currently an old 16GB) or does it need more than 12v? I’m using 104 LEDs (2m).

Please get back to me as soon as you can if you don’t mind. I need it working for a project next week.

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Author : Kyle (IP: 74.137.80.250 , 74-137-80-250.dhcp.insightbb.com) E-mail : ilikesnow@live.com
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Comment:
Problem resolved, I switched out the old wire with female jumper wire and header pins (I wasn’t getting any power to the sd card). However, I’m now stuck with verifying iso mick’s code. It says:
In file included from Digital_Light_Wand.ino:75:
/Users/Kyle/Documents/Arduino/libraries/LPD8806/LPD8806.h:8: error: redefinition of ‘class LPD8806’
/Users/Kyle/Documents/Arduino/libraries/LPD8806/LPD8806.h:8: error: previous definition of ‘class LPD8806’
In file included from Digital_Light_Wand.ino:75:
/Users/Kyle/Documents/Arduino/libraries/LPD8806/LPD8806.h:8: error: redefinition of ‘class LPD8806’
/Users/Kyle/Documents/Arduino/libraries/LPD8806/LPD8806.h:8: error: previous definition of ‘class LPD8806’

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Author : Kyle (IP: 74.137.80.250 , 74-137-80-250.dhcp.insightbb.com) E-mail : ilikesnow@live.com
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Comment:
Oh, and I forgot to mention, my SD reader has two ground pins. Your’s didn’t, and I’m pretty new to DIY electronics so I don’t know if that has anything to do with my issue.

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Author : Kyle (IP: 74.137.80.250 , 74-137-80-250.dhcp.insightbb.com) E-mail : ilikesnow@live.com
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Comment:
Hi Michael,
Thank you so much for the detailed tutorials. I’m trying to build my own wand according to your instructions, but I’m running into the “sd ini failed” error. I double and triple checked my wiring to make sure it was the same as your diagram, and I reloaded iso-mick’s code, to no avail. Any suggestions?

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Author : GazB (IP: 86.158.170.199 , host86-158-170-199.range86-158.btcentralplus.com)
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Comment:
How have you all gone about getting this into a project box? Has anybody managed to find one that will allow you to access the keys and show the screen etc?

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Author : Leonardo (IP: 190.247.157.77 , 77-157-247-190.fibertel.com.ar) E-mail : triadorracedynamics@gmail.com
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Comment:
Hi Michael I`m impressed by your work and I was wondering if you can give a little help with a problem I`m having trying to connect my sd to the arduino due. I followed your wiring but with no luck, it still doesn´t work, can you give a little help here it would be a lot to me thanks.

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Author : is0-mick (IP: 146.90.112.3 , 146.90.112.3) E-mail : mick_r@hotmail.com
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Comment:
Hi Dave,
any software will do to save the images as 24bpp. Gimp, photoshop, or even paint in windows.
You do need to rotate the image 90 degrees to the right.

The gamma section is just a look up table to change the 24bpp to the 2 million colours that the strip supports (as the strip is not 24 bpp).

It just gives better colours that’s all..
You just send 1 byte in, such as a R, G or a B.. and it spits out a converted byte in a more proportional scale.

I already did a ws2801 version for someone else, if you want to take a look at it, its posted in the comments below, or here is a link to it.
code:
http://pastebin.com/73igD6wx

I did use fastspi at one point, but we are already using the spi for reading from the sd card, so you’d need maybe extra hardware or such to do the switching between devices maybe? and I’m not sure how both libraries would work connected to the same pins?

what do you mean by the image “aint right” ? you may need to change the order of the R,G,B being sent, as some strips the LED’s are wired different.

So when you send to the strip you may have to change it from R,G,B to R,B,G for instance.

Mick

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Author : Martin2 (IP: 77.185.81.98 , brln-4db95162.pool.mediaWays.net) E-mail : contact@martin-hoppe.com
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Comment:
Hello once again,

I have a question regarding the code used to read in the bitmaps from the SD-cards:

for(int y=imgHeight; y > 0; y–)
{
int bufpos=0;
for(int x=0; x < displayWidth; x++) {
uint32_t offset = (MYBMP_BF_OFF_BITS + (((y-1)* lineLength) + (x*3))) ;
dataFile.seek(offset);
getRGBwithGamma();
strip1.setPixelColor(x,r,g,b);
}

I would like to display the bitmap the fastest way, so that single pixels appear as much as possible as dots in the picture, not as stripes, when the DLW is moved during exposure time.

So I had a look at the code. I don´t understand anything of the formula used to calculate something whatever there, but I saw the "dataFile.seek(offSet)". Now i wonder what happens in this. In my understanding there is a pointer moved in memory to point to the right values within the bitmap, right? But what exactly is done there? Is there a real access to the SD-card involved? Or is the bitmap somehow buffered? Should I buy the fastest SD-card available or doesn´t it matter at all?

Also: What do you think about the gamma-conversion? Is it time-consuming? If so: To be able to make the LEDs blink as short as possible, could I ommit the conversion and instead adjust the bitmap itself? Would that fasten up the display?

And another question: Would the usage of an Arduino Due speed up things considerably? If not: Why should I use a Due instead of a MEGA?

Lot of questions! Thanks a lot! Martin.

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Author : Martin2 (IP: 77.185.149.127 , brln-4db9957f.pool.mediaWays.net) E-mail : contact@martin-hoppe.com
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Comment:
Hello Mike, hello Chris.

First once again and not the last time I want to thank Mike for his really very kind work here. I installed version 3.0 for the single strip but with all the menu stuff and so on. It works flawless. I am very happy with that.

If ever I will find the time to rewrite the code for an all-together-solution I will dig into it. The way you proposed, Chris, is not a very promising one, I think, because you have to have all the menu handling and all that in the code, and a lot of it is redundant for both versions. Also I think it would be good to alter the button handling a little to an interrupt driven version. It would open up new possiblities. In the end it would be nice to have a version both enhanced in code and hardware so that an artist could play the DLW almost like an instrument.

I am driving that 50-camera setup, and I am doing some 30 seconds ++ exposures, where the DLW has to show some different pictures. I would like to come to a point where I could draw complete scenes with a lot of stuff in it, like streets, cars, chairs, trees, flowers an so on, an it all has to be done within a certain time. This is quiet a very high skill the DLW-artist has to have and thus the DLW itself should support him/her as much as possible.

The fact, that I have the “play it until next keypress” feature now, the one that Mike coded, opens up nes possbilities in drawing the stuff, it is very usefull. Next thing I am looking forward to is to have an “auto advance to next picture” feature. As far as I can see this can be done easily. When I worked it out, I will send the code to Mike, I would be happy to bring my cents in here too.

Best wises for now! May the light be with you!

Martin…

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Author : Chris R (IP: 86.22.118.94 , cpc2-nrte21-2-0-cust93.8-4.cable.virginmedia.com)
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Comment:
Hi martin and mike
been reading this with interest as i also like the idea of a kinda modular system .with 1 control box that i could just plug various lengths/resolutions of strip into..
and i was wondering if i could add a selector switch/ menu option. then combine several of gr8 sketches already written into 1 sketch ( cause making 1 is way above my skill level to be honest) but i have found this which gives me hope 🙂 {
// read the state of the pushbutton value:
int modeSwitch = digitalRead(3);

// check if the modeSwitch is in the HIGH state.

if (modeSwitch == HIGH)
{
// execute sketch #1 code:
}
else
{
// execute sketch #2 code:
}
}
do u guys think this kinda thing would work?
thanks chris

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Author : Martin2 (IP: 78.52.230.181 , f052230181.adsl.alicedsl.de) E-mail : contact@martin-hoppe.com
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Comment:
Hello Mike,

At the moment I have the two strips connected to each other and then one of them connected to the Arduino. So i just fold the strips, always only one is connected. It is like a single 104 LED strip. Until now I don´t use the interlaced version you coded.

If it is necessary to make these connection changeable I will do that. I could have one set of pins left unused for the 104 single strip version, then disconnect the two strips from each other and plug them both to the Arduino with their own set of pins for each other. This is something that can be done without having a computer with me. But as long as there are two versions of code for single/dual strip, I have to have a computer with me to change from one setup to the other. It would be nice to have the possibility to have both the single/dual option without having to put a new sketch onto the arduino, but by maybe alter the connections, this would be ok.

I suppose one could code the sketch also in a way that all the time there is only one strip connected and everything is running on one bus, no? This would prevent the DLW-artist from having to fiddle around with unplugging and plugging together the strips. I think it is best when you determine which is the best way to do it, because you have the most experience with it and know how much hassle each way is. In any case I would appreciate every much not having to have a computer with me.

It won´t take to much time for me to rearrange the strips, but maybe it takes you a long time to write the code the way the strips won´t have to be rearranged?

However, thank you very, very much for you efforts. Best regards! Martin.

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Author : Martin2 (IP: 77.185.136.238 , brln-4db988ee.pool.mediaWays.net) E-mail : contact@martin-hoppe.com
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Comment:
Hi Mike! Thanks for your reply. The options you mention I have right now only by working on the bitmaps and without changing anything on the hardware side.

I have a 104LED single strip now. Sometimes I use the full length (104 single) or turn around the strip so that the backsides come together, now I can use a bitmap with height 104 but on one half black, then I have a single 52 LED strip, or, when “mirroring” the 52 pixels in Photoshop, I have a dual strip, non interlaced. So it is true, I have these options now.

For this setting I would – of course 🙂 – love to have the enhancements you made to the code for die Dual interlaced strip for higher resolution. So I would appreciate it very much. On the other hand I would also love to have the opportunity to have the 104LED-interlaced version. I suppose it is too hard to code that in one sketch? I think it would be great to have it all under one hood, but I can imagine it is a lot of work.

I don´t think my programming skills are good enough to bring all that together, so in the end I maybe will have to have a notebook to upload another sketch to the DLW. I can live with that, I almost all the time have a notebook with me on my shootings.

However, if it isn´t too much work for you, I would definitely like the enhancements off the dual version on my single strip too. Thank you so much!

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Author : Martin2 (IP: 77.12.133.237 , brln-4d0c85ed.pool.mediaWays.net) E-mail : contact@martin-hoppe.com
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Comment:
Oooops. Didn´t read carefully enough. Actually yes, I would appreciate it very much, if you could provide a “fairly quick” modification. Isn´t it possible to make the code handle both single and dual strip versions at once? I am fixing my LED strpes with neodym magnets and will be able to change the strip fast to a dual strip version and vice versa. Thus a single code would make me even more happy. 😀

Thanks again for your kind help. Martin.

I would like to be as flexible as possible, I am building an aluminium system that can be changed for 104 LED, 2×52 mirrored or even using only 52 LED on as short stick.

When you look onto my website you can see that the LED stick is rotated very fast, so it is really important that I can have the “mirrored” option.

So is the “Dual Strip” v 2.0 also suitable for a single strip?

Thanks a lot! Martin…

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Author : Martin2 (IP: 77.185.65.43 , brln-4db9412b.pool.mediaWays.net) E-mail : contact@martin-hoppe.com
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Comment:
Hello Michael, after having soldered my 104 LED strip here almost without any faults that had to be corrected- thanks to your excellent advices here – I would like to put my hands on your 1.1 version, but cannot find it. Did you release and link it here? I would love to have the repeat times feature and so on. I could code it myself, but since I know I will build in some more features, I would like to start from your release. Could you give me a hint?

Thanks a lot! Martin…

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Author : Martin2 (IP: 65.49.14.56 , 65.49.14.56) E-mail : contact@martin-hoppe.com
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Comment:
Hello nerds,

I woulf like to make a “double sided” version, where the backsides of the strips are put together, so the strip will have lights boch on the front and on the backside. This would make it possible to rotate the strip without having blackouts in the picture.

What would you suggest how to start this feature? Should I build it as a single thing and then make “mirrored” Pictures? Or ist ther an easy way to go along by software or so?

Thanks! Martin…

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Author : Martin (IP: 2.216.249.178 , 02d8f9b2.bb.sky.com) E-mail : martbarras@hotmail.com
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Comment:
Hi michael, thanks for your help so far ,think ive cracked it ! I’ve tried a different approach and uploaded the code on a pc instead of a mac and the code seems to work on the device even with the weird card reader( I was given it ,but can’t seem to find that kind online anywhere) i have a “normal” lol one on order now too 🙂 can i ask what program are you using to convert the images with?

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Author : martin (IP: 2.216.249.178 , 02d8f9b2.bb.sky.com) E-mail : martbarras@hotmail.com
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Comment:
hi michael,
thanks for replying ,i think its installed by the look of things,kinda new to this code if you couldn’t guess lol, i’ve got the strip running the example strand tests ok,the reader i’m using doesn’t have a cs pin but has a nss pin is this the same ? or could this be the cause of the problem,if i need a sd library where can i download it from?

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Author : martin (IP: 2.216.249.178 , 02d8f9b2.bb.sky.com) E-mail : martbarras@hotmail.com
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Comment:
hi michael ,
im having a little problem when i install the code it comes up with the following errors, (see below ) any chance you can point me in the right direction?

martin

sketch_may25b.cpp: In function ‘void GetFileNamesFromSD(File)’:
sketch_may25b:726: error: ‘class File’ has no member named ‘openNextFile’
sketch_may25b:742: error: ‘class File’ has no member named ‘isDirectory’
sketch_may25b:750: error: ‘class File’ has no member named ‘name’
sketch_may25b:756: error: ‘class File’ has no member named ‘name’

Digital Light Wand Comments – LPD8806 DLW